Maurizio, one of Geografico’s historic winemakers, emotionally recounts the long adventure of the Cooperative, which was created to revive the Chianti peasant economy. From the days of sharecropping to the modernization of wine, Geografico has conquered international markets while maintaining a deep connection with the Tuscan hills. The acquisition of Piccini has given new life to the winery, a symbol of the passion and history of Chianti Classico.
Amid the hills surrounding Gaiole in Chianti, in an enchanting corner of green, stands the historic Geografico winery. Its gleaming steel vats and large barrels guard , between the folds of time, the long adventure of the Cooperative. Even the wind, which placidly hisses through the surrounding vineyards, seems to want to tell its own story. Suddenly, the creaking roar of an engine resounds in the air. A tractor with a trailer bulging with bunches of grapes emerges from the roadside. Lemme lemme approaches, then, with one last puff, stops in front of the collection tank. Out comes a cheerful little man in his seventies, his smiling face framed by two thick mustaches. He is Maurizio, one of Geografico’s historic conferters, who has been bringing grapes from his vineyards to the Gaiole winery for a lifetime.
“I have always believed in the Geographic,” he reveals with his voice broken with emotion, “I am very proud to have been part of this project since its inception. His eyes sparkle as he recalls those heroic times of soil and sweat. “I experienced firsthand the consistent impetus that the Cooperative brought about in the farming world that populated these hills. At the time, this slice of Tuscany was experiencing the last season of sharecropping, still mired in a backward and anachronistic production culture. Tired of this system, seventeen farmers came together to give the Tuscan countryside a voice and to revive the local economy. The Chianti Geographic Farmers’ Cooperative was born. After the first few years of running-in, the Geographic began to grind out its first successes, attracting the attention of other farmers who joined the cause.”
It is a pleasure to listen to Maurizio. His hands, hardened by hard work, flail in the wind, tracing the emotion of his words. His voice is exalted as he recounts the Cooperative’s golden age, which between the 1970s and 1980s brought the star of Chianti Classico to the Olympus of wine, crossing the Alps and imposing itself even in the most important international markets. In this fascinating ride through history, Maurizio does not omit the latest milestones, fondly recalling the recent acquisition of Piccini, capable of giving a second life to Geografico.
“This 60th birthday,” he adds, in a firm tone, “can and should be an opportunity to look back and appreciate the giant strides we have made. In all these years, the world of wine has literally been turned upside down; for the better of course! The last few decades have marked a momentous turning point: the ancient farming background has given way to modernity. From centuries-old wooden barrels we have moved to modern concrete tanks; while rudimentary winemaking techniques have given way to the precision of oenological calculations. New machinery has eased our labors, allowing us to achieve ever higher quality. But what makes Geografico special is the deep connection with this land, with these hills. I’ll let you in on a little secret. When the cool September breezes grant some relief, I like to spend long afternoons in my vineyard, cradling the grapes with my eyes. Instinctively, I allow myself to be carried away by a hint of pride. And then I like to think that the history of Chianti Classico, written together with the Geografico, has also passed, in its own way, through the branches of my vines.”
It is difficult to hold back emotion while listening to Mauritius. In his words rests an ancient truth, which, so many years later, has not lost the flame of passion. With the lucidity and enthusiasm of those who know they have been part of a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, which from the ramshackle Tuscan farmhouses has reached the most prosperous European markets. And this is a beautiful tale that is always worth telling.